
I do not use it very often, but my favourite cookbook is A Taste of Quebec by Julian Armstrong (1990). When I go to Quebec, I always make a point to eat the French-Canadian treats I cannot get at home: maple sugar pie, cretons, smoked meat sandwiches from Schwartz's... (Um, okay, that last is not French-Canadian, though it is in Montreal.) Happily for me, though, I can have my beloved tourtière de Québec whenever I like, for I have a very good recipe for it in A Taste of Quebec.
I can make this meat pie blindfolded now: 675 grams of lean ground pork simmered in water with onions, celery, a bay leaf, pepper, savory, rosemary, nutmeg and a pinch of cinnamon for an hour and a quarter, oatmeal added in the last three minutes, cooled off a little, poured into a pie shell, and topped with a crust. Into the oven it goes at 425 degrees F for 15 minutes, and then at 375 for 25 more. Tourtière is served with potatoes and "ketchup vert" as this relish is known in Quebec. (I found a version of it in Boston under the name "piccalili.") If the pie is for a fancy dinner, I purchase a full-bodied red wine.
My mentor is French-Canadian, and he feels that it is wrong to add oatmeal to tourtière. I argue that a Scots influence does not make a tourtière less authentically quebécois. He has the French translation of my cookbook but is not convinced. I believe he thinks the best tourtière is his mother's. He may be right.
On the weekend I picked all the green tomatoes left on our vines, and my mother made several jars of ketchup vert. Thus, Elspeth and I had a real feast tonight.






